Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
